• Home
  • Shopping
    • Boat Seats
    • Chartplotters
    • Dock & Boat Cleats
    • Dock Lines
    • Dry Bags
    • Fenders
    • Fender Cleats & Holders
    • Fender Covers
    • Fishfinders
    • Handheld GPS Units
    • Inflatable Dinghies
    • Kayaks
    • Kayak Paddles
    • KeelGuard Keel Protectors
    • Pelican Waterproof Marine Boxes
    • PFDs — Adult
    • PFDs — Children’s
    • PFDs — Dogs
    • PFDs — Infant
    • Propellers
      • Left-Hand Propellers
      • Right-Hand Propellers
      • Stainless Steel Propellers
  • Archives
  • About Tom
  • Privacy Policy
  • Contact Us
  • Sitemap
  • Favorite Links

Tropical Boating

Stories about Boats and Boating

  • Sailing
    • Races & Regattas
    • Sailboat Cruising
    • Sailboat Reviews
  • Powerboating
  • Kayaking
  • Fishing
  • Boat Handling
  • Repairs & Upgrades
  • Equipment & Gear
    • Dinghies
  • Boat Building
  • Boating Fun
  • Boating Safety
  • General
    • Trail Camera Pictures
You are here: Home / Sailing / Adding A Jib to the Hobie Adventure Island Kayak

Adding A Jib to the Hobie Adventure Island Kayak

May 21, 2010 By Tom 4 Comments

I happened to have an old jib of an appropriate size lying around. The fabric is really too heavy for a jib intended for use in light winds, but it was sitting in my shed, so it got the job.My old storm sail from a previous sailboat was the right size to use as a jib for my Adventure Island. There's a reason I save everything.

Sailors throughout history have always wanted to find ways to fly more sails and make our boats go faster, and I am no exception.

Although my Hobie Adventure Island trimaran sailing kayak is fast and fun, in light winds it is never quite fast enough, so I decided to add a jib to the boat.

I happened to have an old jib of an appropriate size lying around. It was a storm sail, so the fabric is really too heavy for a jib intended for use in light winds, but it was sitting in my shed, so it got the job.

For my first experiment, I just rigged things very simply, making no new holes in the boat and attaching no permanent hardware. I wanted to see if I liked it, and decide if it was worth the trouble, before getting out the drill.

I went out in very light winds for a test sail, and my brother came along in another Adventure Island and shot this video:

For the jib halyard, I just tied a short line with a loop around the fitting in the top of the mast that holds strap on top of the mainsail. At the end of the line I hung a small Harken block. The halyard passes through this block.For the jib halyard, I just tied a short line with a loop around the fitting in the top of the mast that holds strap on top of the mainsail. At the end of the line I hung a small Harken block. The halyard passes through this block.

I decided I did like it enough to drill at least a few holes, so today I got around to making some permanent changes to the boat to accommodate occasional use of the jib. I wanted to be able to deploy and retrieve the jib without leaving the cockpit, and wanted it to not interfere with normal sailing with just the mainsail. Here is the setup I developed.For the jib halyard, I just tied a short line with a loop around the fitting in the top of the mast that holds strap on top of the mainsail. At the end of the line I hung a small Harken block. The halyard passes through this block.

At the lower end, I replaced the mainsail furling line with a somewhat longer one and tied a small block with becket to the end that is passed through the hole. I used a becket block so that I could clip the end of the halyard back to the same block when it was not in use.

At the lower end, I replaced the mainsail furling line with a somewhat longer one and tied a small block with becket to the end that is passed through the hole. I used a becket block so that I could clip the end of the halyard back to the same block when it was not in use. That way, the jib halyard just rolls up inside the mainsail when it is furled, and does not interfere with furling. To prevent the working end of the halyard from escaping, I put a figure eight knot in the end. I trimmed the extra line off right at the knot after the picture was taken.

I rigged a tack line so that I could pull the tack of the jib out onto the foredeck prior to raising the sail.

I rigged a tack line so that I could pull the tack of the jib out onto the foredeck prior to raising the sail. This will stay on the boat all the time, as it is not in the way and does not interfere with anything. It also doubles as a docking line when needed.

At the bow, I just made a double loop of line through the bow eye and a small Harken block, tied back to itself with a sheet bend.

At the bow, I just made a double loop of line through the bow eye and a small Harken block, tied back to itself with a sheet bend.

Back in the cockpit, I installed a small jam cleat along the port side coaming. This makes it easy to adjust the height of the sail off the deck, and easy to fully release the tack line if winds suddenly come up and I want to unload the jib.

Back in the cockpit, I installed a small jam cleat along the port side coaming. This makes it easy to adjust the height of the sail off the deck, and easy to fully release the tack line if winds suddenly come up and I want to unload the jib. This type of jam cleat with this thin line will also release itself if pulled hard enough, so it's kind of a safety valve. However, it takes quite a tug to make it release, and I'm not sure it is the weakest link in the system.

With the jib flaked and then rolled and the jib sheets rolled around the sail, I can stow it against the bulkhead just forward of the Hobie Mirage Drive. It looks like it would interfere with pedaling, but it does not.

With the jib flaked and then rolled and the jib sheets rolled around the sail, I can stow it against the bulkhead just forward of the Hobie Mirage Drive. It looks like it would interfere with pedaling, but it does not. If I don't decide to use the jib, it can just stay there and I can sail and/or pedal the boat normally.

When I want to sail with the jib, I unroll the sheet lines and roll out the sail along the downwind side of the boat.

When I want to sail with the jib, I unroll the sheet lines and roll out the sail along the downwind side of the boat. I have to scoot forward in the cockpit to retrieve the tack line and the jib halyard and then bring those back and hook them onto the jib. While I'm up there, I pass one jib sheet forward around the mast to the windward side. That one will be the lazy sheet to start out. I did not do that before taking this picture.

Once the tack and halyard are hooked up, I can pull on the tack line to draw the sail out onto the foredeck. I can still reach most of it at this point, so I can keep it out of the water.

Once the tack and halyard are hooked up, I can pull on the tack line to draw the sail out onto the foredeck. I can still reach most of it at this point, so I can keep it out of the water.

A quick tug on the halyard, and I have the jib up! In this picture, the end of the halyard is secured to the tiny cleat on the bulkhead just underneath the mast base.

A quick tug on the halyard, and I have the jib up! In this picture, the end of the halyard is secured to the tiny cleat on the bulkhead just underneath the mast base.

I did not want to have to scoot forward to secure the halyard, and really did not want to have to scoot forward to release it if the need suddenly arose. To solve that problem, I mounted a small cleat on the 8-inch deck hatch just in front of my seat. The idea is that the halyard will be led from the block on the mast, in between the Mirage Drive pedals, and be attached to this cleat.

I did not want to have to scoot forward to secure the halyard, and really did not want to have to scoot forward to release it if the need suddenly arose. To solve that problem, I mounted a small cleat on the 8" deck hatch just in front of my seat. The idea is that the halyard will be led from the block on the mast, in between the Mirage Drive pedals, and be attached to this cleat. I have not yet tried it.

The cleat is attached to the hatch lid with stainless machine screws and locking nuts, with a couple of washers to help distribute the load.

The cleat is attached to the hatch lid with stainless machine screws and locking nuts, with a couple of washers to help distribute the load. I doubt the designers of this hatch ever imagined this kind of stress on it, but it's mostly a shearing load, and it's a sturdy hatch that I routinely stand on when entering the boat.I have succeeded in making a simple boat complicated. Now six lines control the two sails, instead of two lines controlling one sail. Yippee! More stuff to mess with out on the water!

  • Read my review of the Hobie Adventure Island

Filed Under: Sailing, Boat Repairs & Upgrades, Kayaking Tagged With: Hobie, Adventure Island, jib, trimaran

Comments

  1. Dave says

    June 25, 2009 at 12:14 pm

    Checkout some of these kayak jib furling ideas. There are a lot of advantages to furling, and it’s pretty easy to rig. My Hobie Forum username is 69cpu. Here’s a link to the article. My boat is the inflatable. Maybe you’ll get some ideas.
    http://www.hobiecat.com/community/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=10791&start=15

    Log in to Reply
  2. Vicki Ruzicka says

    September 19, 2009 at 12:10 pm

    Tom Ray, you get first prize! I thought I was nutso bec. of all the mods I do on my boats. If one has an engineering mind (unfortunate folk!), then a simple design becomes a complex Rubik’s Cube of tangled tasks.

    I LOVE your Sun Cat improvements, you maniac. Do not be flattered though… this admiration is coming from one like you. It’s like having OCD for boats… not an acquired illness – it’s in the genes.

    Love it all,
    Vicki

    Log in to Reply
  3. Ian Klutke says

    July 7, 2012 at 10:49 am

    I followed your design to add a jib to my AI but found if I was caught out in a sudden gust, lowering and retrieving the jib was a real problem as I tried to fold it. To make things easier I made a furler which to my surprise worked well, but unfurling was a problem until I inserted a 10mm fibreglass luff spar into the jib and changed my home-made furler to an endless loop type. The jam cleat is used to ‘lock’ the endless line so that the jib can be reefed to any desired size. When fully furled, the jib can be lowered down the port side out of the way unless it is intended for use later. Once the jib is disconnected from the halyard, if required the main can be reefed according to conditions. The whole set-up works a treat. Love your video on ‘route 101 with Whimsey…
    Cheers Ian

    Log in to Reply
  4. pete says

    July 27, 2012 at 10:38 am

    hi guys ive done the same thing i use the hobie outback sail its not bad at all its very good in light wind sailing i have more power 10 knots is ideal jib in heavy winds you’ll break the mast thats not a good look ha regards pete

    Log in to Reply

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

You must be logged in to post a comment.

Newer: Multi 23 Sport Racing Trimaran Review
Older: An Adventure Island Kayak Sail in Shell Creek During the Fringes of Ike

This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated

Recent Posts

  • BOTE Aero Rover Inflatable SUP MicroSkiffs!
  • ePropulsion Electric Outboard On A Picnic Cat
  • Com-Pac Picnic Cat Fun!
  • Selling the Stray Goat
  • June 2021 Stray Goat Projects

Topics

  • Boat Building (5)
  • Boat Handling (10)
  • Boat Repairs & Upgrades (50)
  • Boating Equipment (27)
    • Dinghies (4)
  • Boating Fun (30)
  • Boating Safety (7)
  • Buying & Selling Boats (5)
  • Classic Boating Tales (25)
  • Fishing (16)
  • General (37)
    • Drone Stuff (3)
    • Trail Camera Pictures (18)
    • Tropical Fruiting (1)
  • Kayaking (22)
  • Powerboating (18)
  • Sailing (71)
    • Races & Regattas (14)
    • Sailboat Cruising (15)
    • Sailboat Reviews (7)

Most Popular

  • The Perfect Solo Mast-Raising System for Small Sailboats
  • How to Dock an Outboard or Sterndrive Powerboat in 3 Easy Pictures
  • Small Outboard Engine Tilt and Trim: Theory and Practice
  • Tying Boats to Docks Using Springlines
  • Deep V, Shallow V, or Variable Deadrise Hull Performance

Shopping

  • Anchors
  • Boat Paddles
  • Boat Seats
  • Cam Cleats
  • Dock & Boat Cleats
  • Dock Lines
  • Dry Bags
  • Fenders
  • Fender Cleats & Holders
  • Fender Covers
  • Fishing
    • Fishing Reels
      • Spinning Reels
        • Abu Garcia Spinning Reels
        • Daiwa Spinning Reels
        • KastKing Spinning Reels
        • Okuma Spinning Reels
        • Penn Spinning Reels
        • Pflueger Spinning Reels
        • Quantum Spinning Reels
        • Shakespeare Spinning Reels
        • Shimano Spinning Reels
        • Zebco Spinning Reels
      • Baitcasting Reels
      • Spincast Reels
    • Rod & Reel Combos
      • Abu Garcia Rod & Reel Combos
      • Baitcast Rod & Reel Combos
      • Okuma Rod & Reel Combos
      • Quantum Rod & Reel Combos
      • Shakespeare Rod & Reel Combos
      • Spinning Rod & Reel Combos
      • Ugly Stik Rod & Reel Combos
    • Tackle Boxes & Bags
      • Tackle Bags
      • Tackle Boxes
      • Fly Boxes
      • Fishing Backpacks
  • Inflatable Dinghies
  • Inflatable Kayaks
  • Inflatable SUPs
  • Kayaks
  • Kayak Paddles
  • KeelGuard Keel Protectors
  • Marine Electronics
    • Autopilots
    • Chartplotters
    • EPIRBs
    • Fishfinders
    • Fixed-Mount VHF Radios
    • Handheld GPS Units
    • Handheld VHF Radios
  • Pelican Waterproof Marine Boxes
  • PFDs
    • Fishing PFDs
    • Inflatable PFDs
    • Kayaking PFDs
    • Survival PFDs
    • Survival Suits & Immersion Suits
    • PFDs for Infants
    • PFDs for Children
    • PFDs for Adults
    • PFDs for Dogs
    • Throwable (Type IV) PFDs
  • Propellers
    • Right-Hand Propellers
    • Left-Hand Propellers
    • Aluminum Propellers
    • Stainless Steel Propellers
    • Three-Blade Propellers
    • Four-Blade Propellers

Recent

  • BOTE Aero Rover Inflatable SUP MicroSkiffs!
  • ePropulsion Electric Outboard On A Picnic Cat
  • Com-Pac Picnic Cat Fun!
  • Selling the Stray Goat
  • June 2021 Stray Goat Projects

Popular

  • The Perfect Solo Mast-Raising System for Small Sailboats
  • How to Dock an Outboard or Sterndrive Powerboat in 3 Easy Pictures
  • Small Outboard Engine Tilt and Trim: Theory and Practice
  • Tying Boats to Docks Using Springlines
  • Deep V, Shallow V, or Variable Deadrise Hull Performance
  • The Com-Pac Sun Cat: A Review
  • Building a Live Bait Well For A Small Boat
  • Choosing the Right Propeller For Your Boat
  • Rebuilding Whaleboat Tenders Part 5: Boat Parts Shopping Day
  • More Boston Whaler Modifications

About Tom

Starting with the little two-person inflatable raft I had as my very first boat, I have always loved the freedom and the feeling of being out on the water. With my father's help, I added a hard plywood floor to that little inflatable, and that was the beginning of a long chain of boats I have owned, loved, maintained, modified, fixed, enjoyed, and scared myself to death on over the past few decades. [Read More …]

Topics

  • Boat Building (5)
  • Boat Handling (10)
  • Boat Repairs & Upgrades (50)
  • Boating Equipment (27)
    • Dinghies (4)
  • Boating Fun (30)
  • Boating Safety (7)
  • Buying & Selling Boats (5)
  • Classic Boating Tales (25)
  • Fishing (16)
  • General (37)
    • Drone Stuff (3)
    • Trail Camera Pictures (18)
    • Tropical Fruiting (1)
  • Kayaking (22)
  • Powerboating (18)
  • Sailing (71)
    • Races & Regattas (14)
    • Sailboat Cruising (15)
    • Sailboat Reviews (7)

Links

  • Antique Fishing Tackle
  • Big Air Wakeboards
  • Binocular Bargains
  • Boat Parts Online
  • Boat Seats for Sale
  • Boat Wear Bargains
  • Boating Memorabilia
  • Discount Marine Electronics
  • Ice Fishing Shop
  • Maritime Antiques
  • Nautical Motif Gifts & Decor
  • Slingin' Steel Spearfishing Bargains
  • Sun Cat National Championship Regatta
  • Tropical Affiliate Marketing
  • Tropical Web Works
  • Tying Flies

Shopping

  • Anchors
  • Boat Paddles
  • Boat Seats
  • Cam Cleats
  • Dock & Boat Cleats
  • Dock Lines
  • Dry Bags
  • Fenders
  • Fender Cleats & Holders
  • Fender Covers
  • Fishing
    • Fishing Reels
      • Spinning Reels
        • Abu Garcia Spinning Reels
        • Daiwa Spinning Reels
        • KastKing Spinning Reels
        • Okuma Spinning Reels
        • Penn Spinning Reels
        • Pflueger Spinning Reels
        • Quantum Spinning Reels
        • Shakespeare Spinning Reels
        • Shimano Spinning Reels
        • Zebco Spinning Reels
      • Baitcasting Reels
      • Spincast Reels
    • Rod & Reel Combos
      • Abu Garcia Rod & Reel Combos
      • Baitcast Rod & Reel Combos
      • Okuma Rod & Reel Combos
      • Quantum Rod & Reel Combos
      • Shakespeare Rod & Reel Combos
      • Spinning Rod & Reel Combos
      • Ugly Stik Rod & Reel Combos
    • Tackle Boxes & Bags
      • Tackle Bags
      • Tackle Boxes
      • Fly Boxes
      • Fishing Backpacks
  • Inflatable Dinghies
  • Inflatable Kayaks
  • Inflatable SUPs
  • Kayaks
  • Kayak Paddles
  • KeelGuard Keel Protectors
  • Marine Electronics
    • Autopilots
    • Chartplotters
    • EPIRBs
    • Fishfinders
    • Fixed-Mount VHF Radios
    • Handheld GPS Units
    • Handheld VHF Radios
  • Pelican Waterproof Marine Boxes
  • PFDs
    • Fishing PFDs
    • Inflatable PFDs
    • Kayaking PFDs
    • Survival PFDs
    • Survival Suits & Immersion Suits
    • PFDs for Infants
    • PFDs for Children
    • PFDs for Adults
    • PFDs for Dogs
    • Throwable (Type IV) PFDs
  • Propellers
    • Right-Hand Propellers
    • Left-Hand Propellers
    • Aluminum Propellers
    • Stainless Steel Propellers
    • Three-Blade Propellers
    • Four-Blade Propellers

Back to Top
Contact Us · Privacy Policy & Disclosure

Copyright © 2007-2025 · Tropical Boating
Site managed by Tropical Web Works